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Eating Out and In

Fish, as fresh as it gets, can be bought daily on the beach or at the fishermen’s area next to Max’s store. There are three sources of supply:

Pulled in from the beach using a drift net. This happens regularly in the mornings and is quite a spectacle. The catch ranges from huge - up to 350 sea salmon - to very small, but usually there are fish for sale.

Boats with the long bamboo rods return each afternoon between 2 and 5pm. The fishermen clean and de-scale the fish at the wash area. Join the queue. Say if you want fish filleted, in steaks, or left whole. If you have forgotten a bag to put it in, Max sells them for 1/ 2tt dollars.

Occasionally, one or two of the fishermen bring back fish from small cages they have up and down the coast. You can get red snapper, little georgies, and the occasional lobster this way.

The cost of all the fish is between 7 and 15tt dollars a pound. For example, kingfish: 15tt, tuna: 8tt, red snapper: 10tt (more or less). You can also buy ice at the fishermen’s area - ask anyone.

There are a number of ‘eating out’ options currently in Castara. All serve local food. At these, you will usually be asked if you want chicken or fish. This will often be served with small portions of coleslaw, macaroni pie, salad and mooli. Hazel’s (above Max’s supermarket), Veronica (on a takeaway basis) and Debbie at the Cascreole bar on the beach all cook on that basis.

Our favourite place to eat is Marguarite’s, which is just down the hill from Castara Retreats by the river on the edge of the village. She is a very good cook, the prices reasonable, and the atmosphere is quite sophisticated with candles and tablecloths. Call by during the day to book a table and discuss her menu of the day. She will prepare meals to order or take away, including excellent pizza, and she is accustomed to cooking for vegetarians (her salads and vegetables are very good, generally). She hasn’t got a license for alcohol, but you are welcome to take a bottle. She is reliably open, even on most bank holidays, and doesn’t close shop if there is a party in the village!

Brenton’s restaurant on the Little Beach is also very good with a romantic beach side atmosphere and occasional live music. He serves lunch and evening meals (be prepared to wait however and go easy with the devastating rum punches). It is more expensive than the other restaurants but the food is very good.

Rebecca also cooks at The Blue Mango but we are not up to date on what she offers and when she is open. She is a good cook too!

To eat a wider variety of food you will need to go to Scarborough, Buccoo or the Crown Point area. You will find a number of suggestions in the Rough Guide (one or two copies at Castara Retreats) - there are Italian, South American, French places - take your pick. However, it is a long drive back at night. A good place to eat in Scarborough is Salsa, which serves great tapas of fish and meat, salads and pizzas.

Of course, you can always eat in! Loady (our gardener) is happy to cook for you if you really want to put away your pinny for the holiday. He is a very good cook and also good company. He charges 50-70 tt per person, though it is always a good idea to discuss everything in advance. Or, you can rustle up something yourself. Fry some of that fresh fish with a squirt of lime juice, serve with a salad and fried plantain and you have a feast fit for kings.

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